Fertilizing, weed control, applying lime, watering and proper mowing go hand in hand to create the “perfect” lawn.

Fertilizing – Weed Control

The first time to fertilize your lawn is usually April 1st when the lawn is just beginning growth. A fast release granular fertilizer or one combined with a crabgrass preventer can be applied at this time. Look for a product that will feed the lawn and prevent crabgrass at the same time.

In the month of May, a slow release fertilizer with a broadleaf weed killer can be applied. Remember to get good control of broadleaf weeds, they must be in active growth. Just follow the directions on the bag.

Four to six weeks after the application of the weed & feed, a slow release fertilizer may be applied to carry the lawn through summer.

Labor Day is a good time to apply a weed and feed again or a fall fertilizer that will strengthen the lawn’s root system. Another application of fertilizer may be applied in mid to late October to “put the grass to bed” and help for a quick green-up in the early spring.

Watering

Short frequent waterings to a lawn will do more harm than good as only the top 1-2″ of soil will be moist and grass roots will tend to grow shallow. Waterings of once each week of 1″ of water or more are sufficient and will encourage deep root growth.

Never water late in the day or at night as wet grass in the night causes disease in your lawn.

Lime

Applying lime is essential as a soil pH that is too low (acid) will inhibit the uptake of nutrients by the lawn. Most soils in this part of Ohio and nitrogen fertilizers “create” acid in the soil. A somewhat slightly acid to neutral pH is best (6.5 – 7.0)

In order to know how much lime to apply to raise the soil pH, a soil test is helpful. Many nurseries supply soil test kits in which samples may be sent to CCC labs for testing.

As a general rule, one 50 lb. bag of dolomite pulverized lime per 2,000 square feet every other year will maintain a proper pH. Dolomite lime is a type that supplies magnesium to the lawn as well as calcium. Pelletized lime may also be used as it may be spread with a broadcast spreader. Just follow the directions on the bag.

As far as timing, applying lime in November is ideal as fertilizing has stopped. Lime and nitrogen will react with the resulting nitrogen volatizing. Also, applying lime in late fall gives it time to react with the soil before the next growing season.

Mowing

A sharp lawnmower blade does wonders to keep a healthy lawn. A mowing height of 2 – 2 1/2″ in spring and gradually raising the height to 2 1/2 – 3″ in summer is ideal. Mowing too short in summer will put the grass under stress and create a haven for weeds and disease.

Raking or catching grass clippings will not prevent a layer of matted dead grass material called thatch. When a thatch layer in the grass becomes 1/4″ to 1/2″ or more, problems will arise from insects, disease and lack of water penetration to the soil once the thatch dries out. It is best to remove a thatch layer by renting a mechanical thatch in April or September. Then, overseed immediately with a grass mixture that includes a high percentage (70% or more) of fine-bladed perennial ryes plus a starter fertilizer to rejuvenate the lawn.

For instance, the sight of new grass growing often inspires the homeowner to run out and spread fertilizer to help the young blades along. This is actually the opposite of recommended practices for fescue and bluegrass lawns. The proper time to feed grass is in the fall, when the roots that will sustain the plants through the following summer are actively growing. Even if the fall feeding was missed, any spring feeding should be limited to a light feeding (1/2 pound of actual nitrogen, i.e., 5 pounds of 10-10-10, per 1000 sq. ft.) after the initial flush of growth has subsided, probably sometime in May or early June.

Lime, on the other hand, should be applied in early spring, if soil tests show that it is necessary. Most lawn grasses grow best at soil pH’s of 6.0 to 7.0, so have your soil’s pH analyzed every two to three years to be sure you are staying in that range. The soil test results will include recommendations on how much lime to apply.

The best time to establish a new lawn from seed is in the fall, but many homeowners will need to reseed patches of lawn that have been damaged during the winter. Seed sown during March and early April will have a chance to grow successfully if it is well watered and cared for, from seeding on through the heat of summer. It is a good idea to fertilize newly seeded grass using a high phosphorous fertilizer (for example, 25 pounds of 5-10-5 per 1000 square feet when patch seeding) which will foster root growth. The grass will be stronger and healthier if you can water daily until the plants are established. Water approximately once a week throughout the summer, for the tops of the grass may look great, but the roots are not as long and dense as those of the grass in an established lawn.

There are many varieties and types of grass seed from which to choose. Your county cooperative extension agent can supply you with a publication which discusses selection of turfgrasses in Virginia.

When your lawn requires its first cutting, be sure not to cut too short. Mow to about two inches during the spring, then raise the cutting height another half inch when summer arrives. Mow frequently so that no more than one third of the grass blade is removed at one time.

Along with the grass, several undesirables are probably growing in your lawn. The best prevention for a weedy lawn is to provide such great growing conditions that the turf crowds out the weeds. If the weeds are sparse, use that early spring energy to hand pull some of those perennial weeds. There are chemicals that can be used if you have more weeds than energy. If you choose to use herbicides, be sure to apply them when they will have maximum impact on the weed population. Follow label directions closely for information on time of application and safety precautions.

Apply preemergent herbicides between the middle of March and the middle of April to control crabgrass. Crabgrass generally emerges about the time of dogwood bloom, and the preemergent herbicides used to control it will not affect crabgrass that is already up and growing.

Spraying for dandelions is most effective in fall, but spring spraying of a broadleaf weed killer will control many of them. Be sure to spray when the weeds are actively growing rather than during drought conditions. When spraying any herbicide, use a different sprayer from the one which you use to apply insecticides or fungicides. Mark it “HERBICIDE” so it will not inadvertently be used for other purposes, which may result in herbicide residues damaging valuable plants.

March is still a little early for dethatching and insect control, so after taking care of the few necessary lawn chores for early spring, you can relax and save your energy for summer mowing.

From DIY:

By Lindsay Bond Totten
Scripps Howard News Service

Gentlemen, rev your engines. Mother Nature has raised the green flag; the race is about to begin. Gardeners call it spring. But no matter how hard you’ve trained, or how thoroughly you’ve planned, there’s simply no way to adequately prepare, either physically or mentally, for the sprint ahead.

I love spring. I live for spring. Someday, I hope to actually enjoy spring. Unfortunately, this spring will probably play out like the others before it. I’ll wake up one June morning to find that spring is already gone — vanished before I’ve had a chance to savor it.

But maybe not. Last season, I had the foresight to make a list of things I should have tackled before spring arrived. Once spring came, of course, it was too late. Items on my “to do” list became entries in the “didn’t get done” column. For a few, the window of opportunity closed when new growth appeared. With others, more pressing chores simply pushed them aside. I’ve lived with the consequences for almost a year.

So, as soon as I push the PRINT button on this column, I’m heading for the garden to:

Cut the old foliage off patches of groundcover such as liriope, carex and Epimedium “Frohnleiten.” Even though these plants are evergreen, the winter-weary foliage lies limp and ragged this time of year. The tufts may look silly for a little while, but eager leaves will soon push up through, at which point it will be too late to cut off the old foliage without damaging the new.

These beautiful groundcovers will fill in better and look neater this coming summer without a skirt of tattered leaves to hide.

Problematic, but worth the effort, is removal of last year’s Lenten rose foliage. The old growth, though tired, helps shield extra-early blooms from late-winter blasts, so here in USDA Zone 5b, we leave the foliage on the plants as long as possible. But it’s time to let the new growth take over – just watch not to nick the flower stalks!

Shear the vinca. With the lawn mower set on “high,” newly sharpened blades will skim off the shabby leaves and let the warm spring sunshine reach the crowns. Myrtle beds will grow back thick and lush, and the buzz cut will help to control the fungus that causes stem rot.

Be sure to rake or blow out the clippings to exhume the source of fungus spores. Then, kick-start new growth with an application of slow-release fertilizer.

Prune, prune, prune. I won’t be satisfied until I have a bonfire-size pile of clippings and brush. “Dormant pruning” is serious work. It has to be done now, before trees and shrubs leaf out. I remind myself that bare branches are much easier to thin and shape than they will be later in spring.

I’ll tackle maple trees, grape vines and other “bleeders” first. That’ll give pruning cuts time to callus before the sap rises. It wouldn’t really hurt the plants to do it later, but sap flowing from wounds is unsightly and will stain the bark.

The evergreens come next, especially the rhododendrons, hemlocks, junipers and chamaecyparis. This is a good time to control their size, since I missed the opportunity last year. Thinning cuts will be hidden by the new season’s growth, and soon they’ll look full and natural again.

Finally, to the roses — looks like they’ll push early this year — and, if there’s time, the shrubs like rose-of-sharon and panicled hydrangea, which bloom on current season’s twigs. They can be pruned hard anytime in spring and still respond with gorgeous blooms this fall.

I’ll wait till later to attack the willows and red-stemmed dogwoods, which display their most vibrant colors just before the buds open.

Pull winter weeds. I won’t let them get ahead of me this season; that’s why I have chickweed and cress seedlings choking the beds right now.

Seeds of winter annuals sprout in the fall and wait impatiently as tiny green seedlings for the first warm days of spring. They bloom before other plants are even up, set abundant seed quickly, then disappear till fall. Our mild winter brings them out early this season, along with the onion grass and garlic mustard. Their strategy, to sneak in under my radar screen, isn’t going to work this year. Because I’m ready.

(Lindsay Bond Totten, a horticulturist, writes about gardening for Scripps Howard News Service.)